Dental Care

A dog's teeth are probably the most overlooked aspect of maintaining good health. When I meet a grooming client for the first time and inquire about their methods of maintaining their dog's teeth, I am often met with a response like "I had four dogs growing up and we never brushed any of their teeth and they were fine." Well, when I was a kid, I never brushed my dog's teeth either, but that does not mean that her teeth were healthy. Today there is a lot more information available to guide us in proper pet care. We have a responsibility as pet owners to embrace that information and guide our pets through a healthy life.

Like humans, a dog's teeth and gums are susceptible to gingivitis and periodontal disease. In fact, according to the American Veterinary Dental Society (AVDS), eighty percent of dogs and seventy percent of cats have periodontal disease by the age of three. That's right, three. An alarming number considering the fact that it is preventable.

So what exactly is gingivitis and periodontal disease?

The first stage of periodontal disease is called gingivitis. When food particles and bacteria collect along the gum line, plaque is formed. If that plaque is not removed, minerals in the saliva combine with the plaque and form calculus, more commonly referred to as tartar. Tartar adheres strongly to the teeth and is irritating to the gums. The reddening and irritation of the gums is called gingivitis. If the tartar is not removed, it builds up underneath the gums and separates the gums from the teeth. The pockets that remain between the teeth and gums become a breeding ground for bacteria. At this point, the condition is referred to as periodontal disease and is not reversible.

Is there anything I can do to prevent these diseases?

ABSOLUTELY! Although age, breed and genetics may also play a role in your pet's oral health, there are certainly steps that can be taken to reduce your risks.

• Regularly brushing your dog's teeth with toothpaste specifically designed for dogs can greatly reduce the accumulation of plaque and development of tartar.
• Regular visits to your veterinarian that include an oral exam and veterinary dental cleanings as advised.
• Chewing on various toys, hard kibble and bones, will help to remove plaque and prevent tartar build-up. Be sure to consult your veterinarian first for recommendations.
• Pet oral hygiene solutions can be added to pets' drinking water. These are much easier and more convenient to use. As your dog drinks, the solution works to repel and retard the plaque and eliminate the bacteria and bacteria by-products.
• There are also healthy dental treats on the market that help remove the plaque and tartar. Be sure to check the label for ingredients and avoid those containing sugars and dyes.

NOTE: It is important to see your veterinarian before beginning any at home dental maintenance to ensure that there is no underlying oral disease or condition that may be worsened by brushing.

How do I know if I am too late?

You are never too late to address this issue. A pet that already has periodontal disease will need continual treatment. If left untreated, the bacteria and infection in the mouth may spread through the bloodstream to cause heart, kidney or liver disease. These diseases can cause serious damage to the organs and lead to premature death.

What are some of the symptoms of periodontal disease?

The symptoms may vary depending on the severity of the condition.

• The first signs of gingivitis are redness of the gums and bad breath. Often followed by any or all of these symptoms;
• Pus around the tooth
• Bleeding gums
• Sensitivity around the mouth
• Pawing or scratching at the mouth
• Gums that are red, swollen or receding
• Loose or missing teeth
• Difficulty chewing or eating
• Loss of appetite or stomach upset
• Drooling
• Irritability

What should I do if my pet is displaying symptoms of oral disease?

Seek veterinary attention and follow the recommended treatment plan.

Tips and warnings for brushing your dog's teeth.

Note: Do not attempt to brush your dog's teeth, until your dog has been examined by a veterinarian and determined to have good oral health. If you have never brushed your dog's teeth before, start by just wrapping some clean, sterile gauze around your index finger and holding it tightly between your thumb and finger, rub along your dog's teeth and gums. Repeat this process once a day for about a week or so and be sure to praise and reward your dog after each session. If your dog accepts the finger exercise, go ahead and move on to a soft bristle tooth brush, and toothpaste that is specifically designed for dogs. Be sure that the size of the toothbrush is proportionate to the size of your dog's mouth. Lift your dog's upper lip and brush in a circular motion. Be sure to brush along the gum line and do the back teeth, not just the front. Repeat the same procedure with the bottom teeth. Initially, when my dog resisted the toothpaste, I used peanut butter to get her used to the feel of the toothbrush. I then started gradually adding toothpaste to the peanut butter and eventually phased out the peanut butter so I was only using toothpaste. There are little rubber finger brushes that slide over the tip of your finger and are used in the same manner as the toothbrush, and some people find it easier to maneuver in the dog's mouth using these. However, I have found that it is very easy for these to slip off of your finger and end up in the dog's mouth creating a choking hazard so I caution against using these. If you are going to use it, be sure to secure the finger brush with your thumb as tightly as possible. If at any time, your dog seems overly sensitive to a certain area or becomes vicious in any way, stop the procedure and consult your veterinarian immediately. There may be a health issue that you are not aware of. Always end every session with praise and affection.

ARE YOU KILLING YOUR DOG WITH KINDNESS?

Most people can relate to coming home after a long day and seeing your furry friend look up at you with those pleading eyes and an enthusiastic wag of the tail. Fido's been waiting all day for you to walk in, grab the leash and whisk him off to another venture through the neighborhood. But you're tired and it's starting to rain, so you grab some biscuits from the cupboard and appease Fido along with your guilt. It's a win-win situation. Or is it?

In most cases this is just a small part of an overwhelming problem. It's a problem that I see every day as pet owners are killing their pets with kindness. I know no one wants to hear that their dog is fat; unfortunately it's an epidemic that has plagued many Americans and is now plaguing their pets as well.

What most people don't realize is that canine obesity is a serious medical problem. Dogs that are overweight are at an increased risk for developing diabetes, damage to joints, bones and ligaments, and have more stress on their heart, lungs, liver and kidneys as well as a decreased quality and length of life. On the upside, an overweight dog is a problem that the pet owner can control with a little education and a lot of dedication. And that is really what I want this article to be about.

The first thing to do is to assess your dog's condition. Certain breeds seem to be more susceptible to obesity such as Labrador Retrievers, Beagles, Cocker Spaniels, Schnauzers, Basset Hounds, Shetland Sheepdogs and Pugs. Remember that just because we've gotten used to seeing them a certain way, does not mean that it is ideal.

A dog in ideal condition will have ribs that can be easily felt, with a thin layer of fat over them. The waist and tuck-up should be obvious but not exaggerated. The tuck-up is the area between the ribcage and the hind legs when you look at the dog from the side. How high it should be will vary depending on breed. The dog's waist is the area behind the rib cage viewed from above the dog. Basically, a healthy dog will have a somewhat hourglass figure, meaning you can see the waist curve in slightly when facing the top of the dog.

If you suspect that your dog may be overweight, the first thing you should do is schedule an appointment with your veterinarian to determine ideal weight, and a proper diet and exercise program and then follow it. Here are some additional tips to help you through it;

1. Be aware of everything that you are feeding your dog. For example, if you are adding a couple of teaspoons of vegetable oil to his food to add shine to his coat, you are also adding calories.
2. Feed reasonable snacks. Skip the biscuits and Snausages and replace with carrot or apple slices. You'll be surprised at how much they enjoy the healthy stuff.
3. Do not leave your pets and children unsupervised at snack time. They may not like sharing with their siblings, but they love sharing with the dog.
4. If your dog is a counter surfer or garbage scavenger, remove the temptation. Keep garbage pails out of reach and don't leave the package of cookies out on the kitchen table.
5. Provide your dog with appropriate exercise. You may have 2 acres of fenced yard but letting the dog out there, does not mean he is exercising. Two to three play sessions or walks of 20-30 minutes each week should be the minimum. Aside from exercising the body, you should exercise the mind as well. Spend 10-15 minutes a day teaching a new trick or renewing an old one. This will help your pet's self esteem as you transmission him into his new healthy lifestyle.

Heartworm, Ticks & Fleas, Oh My!

Untreated, heartworm is fatal. Ticks carry diseases that can also end in death or seriously compromise your pets' health. Fleas can transfer tapeworm to pets and people. The best way to treat heartworm, ticks and fleas is prevention. Check out these facts and tips.

Heartworm Prevention

Heartworm is passed to a healthy animal when a mosquito draws blood

Preventative tabs should be given to cats and dogs regularly, with veterinary supervision. Following are some prevention pointers:

• If you purchase or adopt an animal ask for heartworm records.
• If the animal has not been tested for heartworm, have your veterinarian run a test first. (The exception is puppies under 7 months)
• Treating an infected animal with prevention medicine can be fatal so test before you treat.
• If your pet is free of heartworms feed them a heartworm prevention tablet as prescribed by your veterinarian.
• If your dog is diagnosed with heartworms, treatment is available and often successful. However, it is expensive and extensive.

Tick Facts

• Ticks carry many diseases including Lyme's Disease.
• Ticks are often found in tall grasses and leafy areas.
• Ticks are easily passed from pet to human with the same disease potential.
• Ticks that are on a pet for less than 72 hours rarely pass Lyme's Disease.
• Applying topical treatments and inspecting your pets regularly will help prevent disease.

Flea Facts

• Fleas are tiny, fast and hard to kill.
• A single flea can lay up to 400 eggs per day.
• Some pets are allergic to fleas.
• Fleas can spread tape worm to humans as well as animals.
• The life cycle of a flea has four stages; eggs, larvae, pupae and adult. The egg becomes larvae (grub-like) which then turn into pupae.
• Pupae settle into a cocoon, wait for a suitable host to walk by, then jump onto the host.
• An adult flea can live 100 days without a blood meal.

Flea & Tick Prevention

• To prevent fleas and ticks treat all animals with a topical application such as Frontline® or Advantage®.
• If you have indoor cats and a dog that uses the yard for potty breaks, you should still treat your cats.
• I do not recommend flea collars because in my experience they are not as effective, some pets are allergic to them, and many flea collars are toxic when wet.
• Keep your yard and lawn well maintained and free from leaves and debris.
• If you notice a flea, begin treatment immediately:
• Bathe with a flea shampoo.
• Wash all pet bedding.
• Vacuum and steam clean carpets, furniture and curtains, and be sure to put vacuum cleaner bag in trash, outside.
• Treat your yard with a product that is specific to targeting fleas and ticks and is not harmful to your pets.

Nutrition Basics

Like us dogs are omnivores and need a nutritious mix of protein and carbohydrates. By learning how to read the labels on the bags or cans of pet food, you can select the right type of food for your dog or puppy. Nutritional needs vary based on the age and size of your dog. They can also vary depending on specific health care needs like weight issues or allergies.

Label Guidelines (Canines):

Protein:

Your dog's food should contain 20-25% protein, 25-28% if it's a puppy. Look for pure sources of protein such as beef, chicken, venison, salmon, etc. Words like chicken meal describe a mix of protein that is free of beaks, feet and intestines but most likely includes finely ground bones. Most veterinarian agree this is also an acceptable form of protein because animals in the wild would typically eat the bones and cartilage of their prey and because there may be some nutritional value derived from the finely ground bones. Avoid buying food that uses protein by-products. Avoid Chicken-by-product or Beef by-product because it means any part of the animal may be used (as a protein source) including the feet, beak or intestines. Beak and feet cannot be absorbed by your pet and intestines may contain undigested food or feces. Protein-by-products are very hard for your pet to digest and foods high in by-products actually create more stool volume from your pet.

Binding agents:

These are typically carbohydrates essential to your canines needs and used to hold the food together. Most often binding agents include corn, rice, wheat or oatmeal. Avoid by-products such as corn-by-products because by-products are hard to digest and create more stool volume. Corn meal refers to a small protein strip that is digestible for most dogs. A small but predictable number of pets have allergic reactions to corn. If your dog has a sensitive stomach or does not seem to be doing well on a food containing corn, try to find a food that uses either rice or oatmeal as the binding agent.

Fat:

Fat is another essential pet food ingredient. If your dog or cat is normal weight, select foods that contain approximately 10-15% fat content. If your pet is overweight, select a weight management formula that restricts fat to 9-12%. Fat is an essential pet food ingredient and should never be eliminated from a pet's diet.

Linoleic Acid:

Both dogs and cats benefit from linoleic acid which helps them have nice skin and hair. AAFCO (which is the FDA of pet foods) recommends slightly more than 1% but 2-4% will improve the coat.

Feline Tips:

Cats are carnivores and require higher protein content (typically 30-35%). Make sure their food contains Turine (an essential amino acid), and has a fat content of 10-18%. To avoid urinary issues select foods with a low Ash content (7% or less) and always make sure cats have access to clean water.

FAQ

Can I feed my dog and cat the same food?

No. Occasionally, you might get by if your dog or cat share food, but cats require higher protein levels than dogs so cat food can damage a dog's kidney, and dog food can deprive a cat of turine, low ash and minimum protein requirements.

What's the difference between holistic, organic and regular food?

Holistic foods offer a broader ingredient base such as three types of protein, two or three binding agents, and additional ingredients like cranberries or sunflower oil. If your pet does not have allergies, it is the best way to provide a full range of vitamins and minerals. Certified organic follows FDA guidelines (see the FDA website), but "Organic" by itself is not held to any standards. It's a buzz word-don't be fooled. "Regular food" typical has one protein source and one pre-dominate binding agent. It is often the best type of food to feed dogs with sensitive stomachs, skin or eyes. If you are feeding a Holistic food to your pet and you notice any normal signs of allerargies (i.e. mild hair loss, scratching, runny eyes or nose, mild diarrhea, etc.) change to a regular dog food with limited ingredients such as a lamb and rice or chicken and rice formula. If your dog does not improve, see your veterinarian.

Does my large breed dog have special needs?

Yes, if your dog is over 50 LBS, it's usually best to select a large breed formula because it has higher doses of chondrotin and gloucosomine to keep joints healthy. Some formulas use Omega 3 and 6 instead. Additionally, there are treats that have chondrotine and gloucousomine. It is not good for a small dog or a large bred puppy to have high doses of either chondrotin or glocosomine.

Final Tips:

Finally, consider the daily diet of your dog and cat. Does it include table scrapes or treats? Small dogs can gain weight on healthy treats like green beans and apples due to the carbohydrate content. Active dogs may need food slightly higher in fat or more frequent treats. Cats should only receive protein treats or cat specific treats. Please keep in mind this is a guideline which may or may not be helpful for your specific pet. Please consult your veterinarian for advice on nutrition.

A few last words:

Foods we love like grapes and chocolate can be toxic to dogs. Cats can be poisoned by anti-freeze and plants like poinsettias. For a list of common toxic foods or plants visit the aspca.org website or consult with your veterinarian.

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